"The sun sets at 6:20": Trip 3 out of Kisumu

David moved into the place where I was staying at, the Pabari's Paradise out-house; he is a candidate for a PhD in soil science from Cornell. A very nice guy and slowly becoming a very respectable Kisumu local, considering he spent extended periods of time in Kisumu often throughout the past few years. He also has wheels, and he invited me, along with another of his friends from Cornell, to visit the village where the families of several of his friends live. I took him up on this generous offer and we had two great visits.

It took about 90 minutes to get to Mumias, a town built around the production of sugar and the agribusiness Mumias Sugar Company. Travelling in a car is nicer than travelling in a matatu--its also much quicker, and depending upon your driver, you do not feel as though you are going to die--David was a very good driver.

We then stopped for tea because David's friend who was going to guide us down the maze of back roads to their home, was still on his way to find us. I remembered that more than two chapati (especially if it hasn't been freshly cooked and has just been absorbing the grease from its neighboring chapati) is more than enough chapati for anyone.

Once we were all together, we stopped by the market to pick up two chickens as gifts and some other insundry kitchen supplies to deliver to the family we would be visiting.

Entrance to the family compound

We got to the first compound in the middle of the sugar fields and were greeted by the entire extended family dressed in their finest clothes. We were welcomed into the head of the compound (Mzee)'s hut first for introductions and to deliver our gifts. We were then shuttled to the hut of the eldest son who is still living on the compound for our meal.

Mzee's house

EVERYTHING--I can't stress that enough--EVERYTHING that we ate was harvested from the immediate farm and a result of the hardwork of the people who shared it with us. The meal started with a few bowls of peanuts and seasame seeds laid out on the table in front of us with milk tea (the tea leaves were probably not from the farm, but they could have been). And after filling up on these snacks, the meal was brought out--plantains, arrowroot potatoes, sweet potatoes and cassava--more than I could ever eat. And after I had eaten as much as I could, and there was plenty more left, they brought out sweet bananas for desert. It was a beautiful spread of food and the company was great.

Most of the younger generation spoke some English, but the Mzee and some of the women did not speak English but could understand Swahili so I was able to communicate with everyone, which was particularly special. It was also pretty funny, how after me speaking with the Mzee for a little while, one of the older sons began to translate our conversation into English for David and his friend.

We finished eating, heard a small bit of history on the lands from the Mzee and walked around to see the grounds. It is just (inshallah) the start of the rainy season so there wasn't too much growing but it was still special to see where they lived and where our meal had come from.

Mzee and his family

As we packed up to leave and say our goodbyes, we were handed some gifts including a huge bag of roasted seasame seeds and peanuts, as well as two chickens--different from the ones we gave, but of the same type. We jumped into the car, and off we went to travel to the next (and last) compound.

When we arrived at this compound we were greeted by the elder mother and spent time in her house. We gave her the chickens we had received (Pabari's Paradise frowns on raising chickens--as well as many other things) and entered her house for introductions. Here we learned that our hostess was one of two wives for the late Mzee of the household. She had twelve children (only 3 sons) and the Mzee had taken another wife in hopes of getting more sons (she had three children, two sons). Fortunately for our stomachs, this visit was the reverse of the last visit and her sons grabbed us and showed us around the property first and then we sat and talked, and then we ate--again the food was copious.

One special meal we got was "Aliya" which is a special Lou food of slow roasted / dehydrated beef. It was delicious and its a genuine treat as beef is expensive and the labor is great to cook it. We had fresh fruit, multiple types of ugali, chicken, local greens and much more. Another beautiful meal to remember.

As 6:20 was approaching and the sun was setting, we said our goodbyes, piled into the car and gifts of peanuts in hand, we left happy and having had a true day to remember.