Approaching to greet |
Mbita was great. The drive to the ferry was wonderful, until the last few kilometers which were terrifying. The matatu was late (as we had been sitting in the bus stand for well over two hours) and it needs to meet the ferry at the dock in order for us to get on the ferry, and them to pick-up ferry passengers and take them to Kisumu. The entire trip, the conductor had been hurrying people on and off the matatu (“fanya fasta fasta”) was what he kept saying to the passengers as the driver took off before both feet of the new passenger had left terra firma. And by the time we were just outside of the ferry, the driver was being motivated by other matatu conductors who were coming back from the ferry who were gesticulating that the ferry was leaving. Each matatu we passed made the driver accelerate harder and check his speed less. And there we were barreling at who-knows the speed (because the speedometer is either broken or disconnected) towards the lake, downhill and around curves without ever really breaking. We made it—on the ferry and to the island.
I arrive at the island and everyone wants to know if I want a taxi—no I don’t because I don’t really know where I would go. So I walk. And I just walk around and people greet me friendly and little children run to me and say hello. People ask me to take their picture—and I oblige and have some cute pics of little kids. I just walked and talked and took in the environment. It was really hot, very dry and dusty and quite beautiful.
Piga picha |
I ate lunch at a small shack on the “causeway,” which links together Mbita and Rusinga islands. I got a big old fried fish with ugali and cabbage and sat and ate for about an hour listening to the guys next to me babble back and forth in a mixture of English, Swahili and a tribal language I don’t know. I paid and I left and slowly walked back checking out the stalls along the way.
Sandals made from old tire |
The entire time I was on the island I was greeted so warmly and I was never asked for anything, at all. Except for one situation—I passed a group of young men sitting under an open air shelter and they approached me with a notebook and asked for a contribution (mchango). This is a really common thing to do for sports teams, schools or other community efforts—everyone around donates what they can and maybe something happens.
The boy, the youngest of the group, approaches me and asks me to contribute and shows me the book. This is an old school book with a list of names ~100 long who have donated anywhere from 10 to 200 KES (0.10 - $2.50). But there’s a picture on the front of this notebook, and the boy says that it was his brother and that he passed recently. This is another common tradition is for the community to contribute to the expenses of the funeral as well as the well-being and future of the family. So I looked at the guys one more time, always in the back of my mind wondering if I am about to be taken, but I went on my gut and I had been so well received and so comfortable in my visit that I pulled out 50 KES and gave it to them. I always look at the contributions and at the one that appears most often and go a denomination or so above.
As I pull out the money, and sign my name in the book, I see the guys behind my young friend smiling and welcoming me to the town and Kenya, thanking me for the gift and wishing me good luck with my journey.